dimanche 4 mars 2012

Black Beans

I've been wanting to try dyeing with black beans for some time now, but haven't been able to find them.  The other day I found a bag at a local shop.  The brand name is Tersol, but I couldn't find anything on the package indicating where they were grown.

Dyeing with back beans is very simple.  You soak the beans for at least 12 hours, you strain off the soaking liquid and put the beans aside for cooking.  Then you use the murky soaking liquid to dye your fiber.  Note: Never use dyeing equipment for cooking food.  I used a kitchen bowl to soak the beans and then a dye pot to dye the fiber. 

Black beans

Cover beans with about two inches of water

Some people like to dye the fiber with the beans, but then they can't eat the beans and I find that to wasteful.  If you want a strong blue just soak more beans.  You can always freeze the pre-soaked beans for later.

This skein has just been pulled from the bath

Heat will destroy the blue color, so all you have to do is put your pre-wetted fiber into the bowl and wait.  Black bean dye is very sensitive to pH, so you can play around with the color by adding a little baking soda or vinegar.  My tap water is alkaline and so I got a beautiful bright blue.  It also seems like black bean dye works best on superwash wools.

Left to right 1st bath and 2nd bath
I did throw a little bit of weld dyed Shetland wool into the bath, just to see if it would go green.  It did.  It's a nice shade of celery. 

Weld dyed Shetland wool over dyed with back beans

I used 1k of beans to dye 200g of alum mordanted BFL and nylon superwash sock yarn.  I probably could have dyed a lot more fiber, but I'm almost out of alum mordanted wool and didn't want to use up too much of my stash.  I dumped the spent bath into my flower garden.

This is the most accurate picture of the blue color

Black bean dye is not very light fast, and is very sensitive to heat.  I recommend minimal washing in cold water only. Be sure to dry your dyed fiber in a shady place.

mardi 31 janvier 2012

Woad Prints

My tests with the Trametes Versicolor and the Auricularia Mesenterica were a bit of a bust. 

Trametes Versicolor

Auricularia Mesenterica
 The test on the left is the trametes versicolor.  It's a smidge green....I think.  Maybe I've been looking at it for too long.  I'll have to test again with a lot more mushrooms.  It think it needs at least 2:1 mushrooms to fiber. 

Left: Trametes versicolor Right: Auricularia Mesenterica
Well, you can't win them all.  On a positive note, I was cleaning out my guest bedroom and found my rubber mallet.  I've been meaning to make some dishcloths for a friend using the "hapa zome" technique described in India Flint's book "Eco Colour".  

It's a simple enough process.  You need a hammer or mallet, a couple of pieces of thick paper or mat board, and some sort of relatively smooth woven cloth that's either been mordanted or has been through the washing machine a number of times.
You fold the fabric over the leaf or flower, then you sandwich the cloth between two pieces of mat board.  Next, you hammer the heck out of it.  I tend to start out hammering through the mat board them I hammer softly, directly onto the fabric.  You've got to be careful not to squish the leaf or flower into the fabric.  I have a dish towel that was used in a demonstration and I still can't get the little bits of vegetable matter out of the fabric. 

For these prints I used woad leaves.  I wasn't sure what color they were going to give me.  Sometimes they give me blue, but this time they gave me a clean bright grass green. 

There were a few hints of blue in the stems.  These leaves came from old plants that have been in the shade most of the winter, so I doubt that there's much intigotin in them.  Still, they made beautiful prints. 
I love using old dish towels for printing.  You don't need to mordant them.  They've been mordanted by the detergent from many many washings.  Also, people aren't precious with dish cloths so when the colors fade they won't be as disappointed.  Of course, the towels can always be refreshed with a new layer of prints when the original impressions fade.

I'm going to the market tomorrow and will buy some pansies to finish off the cloth.  I love printing with pansies.  They make very delicate and detailed prints.  The pansy prints don't survive many washings, but I've had good luck with woad leaves.   I'll run an iron over the towel when I'm done printing just to set the dyes a bit.  Then I'll put the towels away for a couple of months just to let the prints cure.  This type of printing isn't supposed to make durable prints, but I think that's debatable.   I've got one dishcloth that has some buddleja leaf and flower prints and it's been through the washer and the dryer multiple times with no real change to the quality or strength of the colors. 

jeudi 26 janvier 2012

Bleach Testing

I'll start and end with the fungi.  Yesterday I had a little time to myself and I used it to do a bit of testing.  My veggie garden has four very large raised beds that are constructed out of untreated oak railroad ties.  Several kinds of bracket fungi have made themselves quite comfortable on the old oak ties.  There is one color of trametes versicolor that I've been looking for and I finally found some.  It's the blueish tinted variety.  Trametes versicolor can vary a lot. According to the book "The Rainbow Beneath my Feet", by Arleen Rainis Bessette and Alan Bessette, the blue variety makes a blue or green dye.

Trametes versicolor
 I also found a bit of "Tripe fungus" or Auricularia mesenterica.  I thought I'd go ahead and test this as well.
Auricularia mesenterica

The underside of Trametes versicolor is always white

The two test baths
Both of the samples were mordanted with alum. Unfortunately, there was almost no color produced by the fungi.  I'm wondering if my trametes versicolor isn't the right blue.  I've let the two tests sit in the bath overnight and will reheat them today.
 Now, on to the lichens.  I live in a place that is fortunate enough to have a wealth of lichens.  Some lichens produce an acid called orchil.  These lichens, if fermented in an ammonia solution, can produce pinks, reds, purples and blues.  When I first started testing lichens I dried and crushed them, put them in glass jars and tried to ferment them in order to see if they contained any orchil, but there is an easier way.

Melanelixia subargentifera -scraped area at center of photo
 It's called the bleach test.  All you need is a very small container of bleach, a couple of q-tips and a small knife.  You test the lichen in question by gently scraping off the upper colored surface, revealing the white layer below, then you dab on a bit of bleach and wait to see if it turns red.  The reaction should be instant. 

Melanelixia subargentifera - red reaction from bleach at center of photo

Punctelia subrudecta - red reaction at center of photo
I have tried this on many lichens and only found a few that reacted positively.  One note here, for whatever reason, I haven't been able to get xanthoria parietina to react even though it does contain orchil acid.  I'm not sure why this is, but maybe it has to do with the fact that the color from paramelia saxatilis is photo sensitive and turns blue when exposed to sunlight or maybe it's just a matter of the concentration of orchil acid.
The two lichens that tested positive yesterday were Melanelixia subargentifera and Punctelia subrudecta.  I recommend collecting lichens that have been growing in full sunlight as this seems to cause them to produce stronger dyes.  Collecting lichens is always easier just after a good rain and I find it's easier to collect them from smooth barked trees such as plum trees, figs, blackthorns etc.  Always remember not to take more than ten percent of the lichen present and be 100% sure that you know what you're collecting.  Lichens are very slow growing.   Some of them are very rare.

Left to Right: Punctelia subrudecta and Melanelixia subargentifera 
 Fortunately, it doesn't take a lot of lichen for the ammonia fermentation method.  You crush up anywhere from 1/4 cup to 1 cup of the dried lichen and place it in the bottom of a glass jar with a tight fitting lid.  The amount of lichen depends on the amount of fiber you want to dye.  Make sure that the jar can hold twice the volume of lichen that you are using.  Then you fill the jar to 1/3 full with household ammonia and top off the remaning 2/3 with water.  You can use a 1:1 solution of water to ammonia, but I prefer to use less ammonia.  You could also use old urine.  In that case, don't add any water.
After sealing the jar tightly you shake the mixture as many times as you can remember per day for at least one month.  It can take up to 16 weeks for the dye liquor to fully mature. 
How you choose to use the liquor for dying is up to you.  I always dilute the liquor so that the fiber is not damaged by the high Ph.  Sometimes I do a long cold dyeing process and sometimes I heat the dye bath.  I always heat it very slowly and don't go above 82C. 
Lichen dyes produced in this way are sensitive to light, so be sure and store your dyed fiber in a dark place.
On my lichen hunt I also stumbled upon some larger bracket fungi called Pellinus tuberculosus.

Old Pellinus Tuberculosus - not good for dyeing

Younger specimens of Pellinus tuberculosus
 These can be found on the dead wood of most fruit trees in my area.  They seem to prefer the wild plum wood.  They should make a nice golden color.